The basement alarm screamed, the pit rose to the lid, and the utility sink burped gray water back through the trap. In a heavy rain—right when you’re counting on it most—your sump pump can make or break your home’s health. One bad call on “repair or replace” turns a manageable fix into a flooring, drywall, and mold remediation project. I’ve seen it happen too many times.
Meet the Limas. Arturo Lima (41), a middle-school science teacher, and his wife, Kendra (39), a freelance bookkeeper, live with their kids Mateo (10) and Eva (7) on a one-acre lot outside Wooster, Ohio. Their 9-foot basement is finished—playroom, guest bedroom, and a small wood shop for Arturo’s weekend projects. Their original builder installed a budget pump with a flimsy check valve. After a spring thaw and three inches of rain, the old unit overheated, popped the breaker, and left the crock inches from overflow. Arturo pulled the switch cord, got it to cough back to life, then it stalled again. The brand? A bargain model with a thermoplastic housing that had hairline cracks around the discharge. That “affordable” buy nearly cost the Limas thousands.
This is exactly when you need a clear, field-tested decision path. In this list, I’ll break down how to decide between replacing and repairing a sump pump using hard-won lessons and the proven advantages of a Myers pump. We’ll cover lifespan reality, materials that matter, motor health, switch problems, impeller wear, discharge and check valve issues, backup systems, power protection, sizing mistakes, and professional installation best practices. Myers Pumps—especially the Predator Plus DNA you see across the brand—bring American-made quality, 300 series stainless steel, and engineering that doesn’t cut corners. PSAM ships fast, stocks parts, and backs you with real tech support. Water control is one place where “good enough” isn’t good enough.
Before we dive in, the credentials that matter: Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty, 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP on their submersible lines, Pentair engineering behind the motors, and UL/CSA certifications. That’s the difference between a system that runs for a decade and one that fails during the next downpour. I’m Rick Callahan, PSAM’s technical advisor, with decades in the trenches sizing, installing, and saving basements. Let’s decide—repair or replace—without second-guessing.
#1. Service Life Reality Check – When Aged Components Outweigh Repairs on a Myers Pump
A sump pump is a wear item, and knowing where you are in the life curve makes the replace-vs-repair call straightforward. If your unit is at or beyond typical lifespan, don’t sink money into band-aids.
Most homeowners see 5-7 years from bargain sump pumps; premium options from Myers Pumps routinely run 8-12 years in basements with moderate duty. Materials drive that difference. A pump built with a 300 series stainless steel motor shell, fasteners, and shaft components resists corrosion that ruins seals and bearings. A quality internal check valve prevents backspin that hammers the impeller and motor start circuit. And when the motor includes thermal overload protection, you avoid burnout from lock-ups during heavy inflow.
For Arturo and Kendra Lima, their old thermoplastic sump failed at year six—right when the rain turned the soil into soup. Once I found heat discoloration on the windings and switch pitting, I told Arturo, “This is replacement territory.” We spec’d a Myers sump pump with a stainless steel housing and a solid float switch—no more mystery failure at 2 a.m.
• Inspect the Age and Duty Cycle
If your pump runs weekly or daily, you’re in high-duty territory. Check the installation date, cycle counts (if you have a counter), and look for corrosion lines inside the crock. Past seven seasons, plan for replacement budgeting.
• Thermal History Matters
Signs of overheating—discolored windings, warped housing, cooked float switch—mean the motor’s insulation is compromised. Repairs won’t restore lost motor life. Replace with a Myers water pump featuring robust thermal protection.
• Don’t Ignore Seal Wear
A wet motor cavity or oil leak tells you the lower seal is done. Seal kits exist, but on an older unit, bearings and shaft wear follow. Replace with a stainless-bodied Myers and reset the clock.
Key takeaway: If your sump is over 7 years or shows heat damage and seal wear, replace now—don’t finance another failure with a repair.
#2. Housing and Hardware – Stainless Steel vs Thermoplastic: Replace When Structural Integrity’s in Question
Housing cracks, failing fasteners, and corroded volutes aren’t cosmetic. Structure drives alignment, seal seating, and heat dissipation. Replace when the body is compromised.
With 300 series stainless steel housings and fasteners, Myers sump pumps shrug off pit chemistry—iron, mild acidity, and the damp environment that eats cheaper alloys and plastics. A rigid, corrosion-resistant frame protects bearing alignment. Combined with engineered composite impellers, you retain curve performance without sandblasting the vanes. Add a threaded assembly design, and you gain field-serviceable confidence for future maintenance.
The Limas’ cracked thermoplastic discharge plate flexed under pressure, letting the volute wander just enough to nick the impeller. That misalignment created the buzzing stall Arturo heard. Plastic parts can work in light duty, but not in a high water table with long cycles. We installed a stainless-bodied Myers with a robust volute and stainless hardware—problem solved.
• Check for Micro-Cracks and Flex
Shine a flashlight across the discharge neck and mounting points. Any flex while tightening the coupling? Replace the pump. A stable chassis is non-negotiable.
• Corrosion is Progressive
Rust at fasteners and the motor shell means the environment is winning. Stainless is your exit strategy. Myers’ stainless doesn’t just look better—it holds tolerances over years.
• Seal Seat Integrity
If the seal seat is pitted or out-of-round, you’ll chase leaks forever. Replace the entire unit. A new Myers pump ensures proper seal alignment and motor protection.
Key takeaway: Structural damage or corrosion? Replacement beats a patch job—upgrade to stainless and stop the spiral.
#3. Motor Health Diagnostics – Replace if Windings or Bearings Are Compromised; Repair Only for Clean Switch Faults
Motor condition decides the economics. Burnt windings or failing bearings mean it’s time to replace. Simple switch faults can often be repaired.
A quality sump motor—especially in the Pentair-backed lineage—features high-grade windings, sealed bearings, and precise rotor balance. When bearings start to go, amp draw climbs, heat spikes, seals suffer, and you get a short countdown to failure. Many “it runs, but weakly” calls I see trace to motor degradation. If your windings are blackened or the rotor drags, save your repair dollars for the replacement.
For Arturo, amp draw exceeded nameplate by 30% during startup, and the unit tripped the breaker in 90 seconds under head. That’s bearings complaining and windings cooking. Replacement was a no-brainer.
• Test Amperage Against Nameplate
Use a clamp meter. Over-amp on startup and running equals mechanical resistance or winding damage. Replace with a Myers sump pump that meets spec at design head.
• Heat and Vibration Clues
Hot housing and rumble are bad signs. Healthy motors run warm, not scorching, and with minimal vibration. Vibration eats seals and impellers.
• Switch vs. Motor
If a float switch is clearly stuck, scored, or waterlogged—but the motor measures healthy—then a switch replacement is fine. Otherwise, don’t throw parts at a dying motor.
Key takeaway: Bad windings or bearings? Replace. A clean motor with a float issue? Repair the switch and move on.
#4. Switches and Controls – Repair Floats, Replace When Cycling or Stalling Points to Internal Damage
Sump pumps fail more often on switches than motors. Distinguish between a bad float and a fatigued motor so you don’t replace a whole unit unnecessarily.
Quality units use sealed mechanical float switches or vertical floats with stable hysteresis. When pressure switches and float assemblies pit or stick, you’ll see short-cycling, run-on, or no-start. Replacement floats and piggyback switches are a cost-effective repair when the rest of the pump checks out. On the other hand, if switch replacement doesn’t stop breaker trips or overheating, the motor or impeller is the culprit.
The Limas’ switch looked like the easy answer at first—stuck-on stance. Once we freed it, the pump drew heavy amps and stalled. That’s deeper than a float. I recommended a full unit replacement with a Myers model that includes a robust float and sealed switch cavity.
• Quick Float Test
Lift the float manually. If the pump starts and runs smoothly at normal amp draw, a switch replacement is logical. If it growls or trips, move to full replacement.
• Piggyback Switch Option
A piggyback float switch lets you bypass an internal switch and test the motor’s health. If the motor runs cleanly via piggyback, replace the internal switch or keep the piggyback.
• Protected Switch Design
Choose a Myers sump pump with a well-protected float mechanism and sealed housing to minimize false triggers and water intrusion.
Key takeaway: Repair a failed switch if the motor is healthy; otherwise replace the entire pump and reset reliability.
#5. Impellers and Wear Rings – Repairable in Theory, Often Replace in Practice
Impeller wear steals performance. In high-silt or iron-rich basins, impellers sandblast. Assess the economics honestly.
Precision-molded, engineered composite impellers resist abrasion better than basic plastics, and they maintain vane geometry longer. When combined with a proper intake screen and a solid wear ring, you get stable curve performance. On many budget pumps, the impeller-to-volute tolerances are sloppy from day one—efficiency falls off a cliff with modest wear. By contrast, Myers attention to materials and clearance holds your GPM and head under heavy use.
At the Lima home, the impeller edges were ragged, and the wear ring chewed. Could we have replaced those parts? Maybe. But the overheated motor and cracked volute made replacement the right call—new parts on an old frame solve nothing.
• Measure Real Performance
Time the pit drawdown. If you’ve lost more than 25% of your historical performance under the same inflow conditions, the impeller or motor is compromised.
• Inspect for Erosion
Look for scalloped vane edges, widened clearances, and volute gouging. Repairs rarely restore like-new efficiency.
• Upgrade the Intake Screen
A Myers water pump with a robust intake screen and proper pit maintenance cuts abrasive wear dramatically.
Key takeaway: If impeller wear is paired with motor heat or housing issues, replace—don’t chase diminishing returns.
#6. Discharge Plumbing, Check Valves, and Head – Fix the Piping First, Then Decide
I can’t count how many “bad pump” calls end up being a failed check valve or restrictive discharge. Always address plumbing restrictions before condemning the pump.
A quality check valve prevents backflow, stops water hammer, and eliminates backspin startup load. Proper discharge sizing—typically 1-1/4" NPT at the pump stepping to 1-1/2" PVC—keeps velocity in check. Excessive vertical lift (TDH), too many elbows, or a partially clogged line can mimic pump failure. Fixing the discharge can restore performance and extend pump life.
Arturo’s line had a cheap flapper valve near horizontal—water hammer city—and a crushed elbow from a storage bin. We replaced the valve with a clear-bodied check at the vertical riser and corrected the run; that alone would have saved a healthy pump. On a dying pump, it set the new Myers up for success.
• Calculate Total Dynamic Head (TDH)
Add vertical rise plus friction from fittings. If TDH exceeds the pump’s curve, you’ll see slow evacuation and hot motors. Choose a Myers sump pump with head room above your actual TDH.
• Install the Check Valve Vertically
Vertical placement ensures full closure, prevents slam, and reduces reverse spin. Use unions Helpful hints for service.
• Fit the Right Pipe Size
Undersized lines boost friction loss. Match the pump’s discharge and run 1-1/2" PVC unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.
Key takeaway: Fix the discharge and check valve first. If performance remains poor, then move to replace.
#7. Power Protection and Outages – Replace Burnouts, Add Backup to Protect Your Basement
Power spikes and outages are sump-killers. Lightning, brownouts, and frequent starts cook motors. Deep-cycle backup keeps you dry when the grid blinks.
A pump with lightning protection and thermal overload protection survives more abuse than bare-bones motors. But nothing runs on nothing—when storms knock power out, a battery or water-powered backup stands between you and a flooded slab. Myers offers dependable primary pumps, and pairing them with a quality backup is the winning combination.
When the Limas admitted their breaker tripped during storms and the house has a history of nearby strikes, I spec’d surge protection on the dedicated circuit and a battery backup unit to carry the pit through two hours of heavy inflow. Primary: Myers stainless sump. Backup: matched flow, separate float.
• Dedicated Circuit, Proper Voltage
Confirm 115V supply on a dedicated circuit with correct wire gauge. Undervoltage overheats motors.
• Surge Protection and GFCI Strategy
Whole-house surge plus a quality breaker protects electronics while avoiding nuisance trips. Follow local code on GFCI use in basements.
• Add a Backup Pump
A separate pump and float, on battery, is non-negotiable in high water tables. Your primary Myers does the heavy lifting; the backup saves the day.
Key takeaway: Replace burnout victims and fortify the circuit. A Myers primary plus backup is disaster insurance.
#8. Right-Sizing the Pump – Replace Undersized Units, Repair Only When Size Is Correct
Undersized or oversized pumps fail early. Sizing is simple math: match pump curve to your TDH and inflow rate. Replace wrongly sized pumps—don’t waste money repairing them.
A sump pump at its best efficiency point (BEP) moves water with less heat and wear. That’s where Myers shines. Even though BEP metrics are more often discussed with well pumps—think Myers submersible well pump and Myers deep well pump—the principle applies in ground water control. A unit constantly on the far end of its curve runs hot and dies young. Proper staging, motor torque, and discharge sizing keep stress down.
For the Lima home, a modest 1/3 HP was adequate given a 9-foot lift and moderate inflow, but the cheap unit lived near the edge of its curve. We replaced it with a higher-quality 1/3 HP Myers with stronger head performance. The difference shows up in run time and temperature.
• Know Your Numbers
Measure water inflow during peak events. Calculate TDH precisely. Choose a pump that hits BEP near your real-world duty.
• Avoid Oversizing
Too much horsepower can short-cycle and slam the check valve. Choose the smallest pump that comfortably handles peak.
• Reference Pump Curves
PSAM posts curves features of Myers pumps and can size you correctly in minutes. Don’t guess—spec it right and relax.
Key takeaway: Wrong size? Replace. A correctly sized Myers runs cooler, longer, and saves money.
#9. Warranty, Support, and Serviceability – Myers vs. the Field (Detailed Comparison)
When it’s repair-or-replace time, warranty coverage and field serviceability tip the scale. Myers’ coverage and access beat most of the market on homeowner-friendly economics.
Technically speaking, Myers brings a robust build with 300 series stainless steel elements, high-quality seals, and protected electronics—core reasons their pumps hold calibration and efficiency. Motor platforms rooted in Pentair engineering offer consistent torque delivery and overload protection, translating to stable amperage and reduced heat. Many models are UL listed and CSA certified, reflecting safety and performance validation. The practical piece: field-friendly threaded assembly and common-sense parts support from PSAM.
In real-world application, this means simpler service without proprietary hoops. While some brands steer you to dealer-only parts or limited switch options, Myers keeps components accessible. With an industry-leading 3-year warranty, replacement decisions are easier—more coverage during the most failure-prone period. Over years, customers see fewer emergency calls, lower energy usage thanks to pumps operating near BEP, and fewer surprise failures due to corrosion-resistant design.
Value conclusion: Compared to brands that cap warranty at a year and restrict parts, Myers reduces total cost of ownership through longer service life, better efficiency, and straightforward support. For basements and wells, that reliability is worth every single penny.
• PSAM Advantage
We stock the models and parts that solve real problems same-day. Need a float, check valve, or a full pump at 3 p.m.? We make it happen.
• Documentation and Curves
You’ll get clear manuals, pump curves, and install guides. That’s how you avoid mis-sizing and callbacks.
• Field Service Wins
Threaded designs and non-proprietary components mean your contractor can fix it on site without runaround.
Key takeaway: Warranty plus accessible parts equals smarter replacement decisions. Myers and PSAM put you ahead.
#10. Installation and Best Practices – Replace Bad Installs; Repair Only After the System Is Correct
Wrong installations kill good pumps. Before you repair anything, fix the system around the pump—then decide if the pump merits saving.
Best practice starts with a clean crock, a solid pitless adapter equivalent (for wells) style attention to sealing, true vertical pump placement, and a quality wire splice kit with heat-shrink butt connectors. A straight discharge, correct check valve placement, and properly supported drop pipe or riser reduce vibration. Add a torque arrestor equivalent function via proper strapping, and you prevent twist on startup. Finally, label the circuit and test quarterly.
During the Lima job, we corrected the discharge geometry, installed a clear-bodied check valve, replaced the old couplings with sch. 40 unions, lifted the pump on a stable stand to keep it out of silt, and added a high-water alarm. Then we installed the Myers. That’s how you make a replacement last.
• Elevate Above Silt
A pump sitting in sludge eats impellers. Use a stand to keep the intake screen clear.
• Unionized Service Points
Install unions and a ball valve above the check valve. You’ll thank yourself during the next service.
• Test and Document
After install, time the drawdown, record amps, and note baseline sound. Future diagnostics become easy.
Key takeaway: Make the system right, then make the pump right. A correctly installed Myers stays right.
Competitor Spotlight: Why Myers Outlasts Red Lion and Goulds in Basement Duty (Detailed Comparison)
Technical performance: Myers specifies extensive use of 300 series stainless steel hardware and motor shells that resist corrosion in damp, iron-stained pits. That stability keeps seal faces aligned and bearings happy. Their impellers leverage engineered composites that resist abrasion far better than commodity plastics. In contrast, some Red Lion sump models use thermoplastic housings that can develop stress cracks around the discharge under frequent cycling and temperature swings. With Goulds, certain sump and effluent units incorporate cast iron components that rust aggressively in acidic water, leading to seal seat pitting.
Real-world differences: In basements with persistent inflow, a sump that holds clearances preserves its curve. Myers holds alignment; you keep the GPM. Red Lion’s thermoplastic can flex, widening clearances and compromising lift; performance fades. Cast iron in a humid, corrosive environment speeds maintenance cycles and risks seized fasteners. Myers’ 3-year warranty and PSAM parts availability mean minimal downtime; budget alternatives often leave homeowners replacing the entire unit at year three or four.
Value conclusion: Time is money—and so is a finished basement. Myers’ stainless build, stable hydraulics, and superior warranty reduce replacements, emergency calls, and water damage risk. For a family like the Limas, that peace of mind is worth every single penny.
Competitor Spotlight: Myers vs Franklin Electric Control Ecosystems (Detailed Comparison)
Technical performance: Myers integrates durable, serviceable switch systems and motors backed by Pentair without locking you into proprietary control boxes. Many Myers sump and well configurations allow straightforward replacement of floats and controls. Some Franklin Electric submersible platforms, especially in well systems, expect proprietary boxes and specialty parts. For basement duty, simplicity wins: 2-wire configuration approach in many Myers applications keeps components minimal and reliable, while maintaining protected windings and overload features.
Real-world differences: Serviceability determines downtime. A homeowner or contractor can replace a Myers float, check valve, or control component the same day. Proprietary ecosystems often demand brand-specific parts and dealer networks, stretching outages into days. When your pit is rising, that’s a deal-breaker. Myers’ focus on accessible parts, combined with PSAM stocking and same-day shipping, keeps homes protected in storm seasons.
Value conclusion: For sump protection, fewer moving parts and accessible components mean faster fixes and lower lifetime cost. Myers’ field-friendly design and support structure deliver that, making the investment worth every single penny.
Real-World Summary: The Limas’ Decision—Replace
For Arturo and Kendra, too many failure signals stacked up: cracked housing, overheated motor, hammered check valve, and scarred impeller. Repair would have cost half the price of a new unit without restoring reliability. We replaced their failed sump with a stainless-bodied Myers pump matched to their head and inflow, added a robust check valve, cleaned the crock, elevated the intake, and installed a battery backup. Their basement stayed dry through the next two storms. That’s what the right call looks like.
FAQ: Myers Sump Pump Repair vs Replacement
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my sump’s lift and inflow? Start by calculating Total Dynamic Head (TDH): measure vertical lift from the waterline in the pit to the discharge point, then add friction loss for fittings (roughly 1–2 feet per elbow in a typical 1-1/2" run). Next, estimate peak inflow by timing how quickly water rises in the pit during a heavy rain—convert inches per minute to gallons per minute based on pit diameter. Choose a pump whose curve delivers your required GPM at your TDH, ideally running near its best efficiency point (BEP). For most basements with 8–10 feet of lift and moderate inflow, a quality 1/3 HP or 1/2 HP Myers will handle the load. If you regularly see rapid rises, consider stepping to 1/2 HP for headroom. Rick’s recommendation: call PSAM with your lift and pipe layout. We’ll read the curve with you and spec the exact Myers model that runs cool and efficient.
2) What GPM does a typical basement need, and how do impellers affect pressure? Most homes need 35–60 GPM at 8–12 feet of head during peak rain—more if you have a large footprint or a high water table. The impeller’s geometry and clearances dictate how much water the pump moves per revolution and how much head it can generate. As impellers wear, clearances open and GPM falls at the same head. That’s why premium engineered composite impellers in Myers units matter; they hold geometry longer under silt and grit. A correct match means your pump cycles on, clears the pit quickly, then rests. Over-pumping with oversized HP can cause violent check valve slams and short-cycling; undersizing runs the motor hot. Rick’s tip: time your drawdown after install and keep a log. If performance drops 20–30% over time, inspect for wear before the next storm.
3) How does Myers achieve high efficiency compared to others? While “80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP” is a headline you’ll see in Myers’ well pump literature, the design DNA carries over: tight impeller-to-volute clearances, smooth hydraulic passages, and balanced rotors that minimize losses. Myers’ Pentek XE motor heritage in well systems demonstrates how proper torque, thermal protection, and winding quality sustain performance. In sump applications, you benefit from similar priorities—efficient hydraulics and motors that don’t waste power as heat. Practically, that means lower amperage for a given GPM and head. Over years, reduced heat equals longer life for seals and bearings. Rick’s take: engineered hydraulics save money twice—once on your power bill, and again by extending pump life.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron or thermoplastic in sumps? Sump pits are humid, often iron-laden environments with occasional mild acidity. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion that pits seal seats, seizes fasteners, and misaligns bearings. Cast iron conducts heat well but rusts; once pitted, you’ll fight leaks and extraction. Thermoplastic avoids rust but can flex and crack under thermal cycles and discharge pressure, causing alignment issues and premature seal wear. Stainless retains geometry and fastener integrity, making service easier and performance stable. That’s why Myers invests in stainless shells, shafts, and hardware—consistent, repeatable long-term performance in the toughest pits. Rick’s field note: the units I pull after 8–10 years that still look square and unwarped are almost always stainless-bodied.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated, self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit? In well pumps, Myers uses Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers to reduce abrasion from fine sand and grit. The material’s lubricity and wear resistance maintain vane edges and spacing longer, sustaining curve performance. In a sump, similar engineered composites provide the same advantage: less edge rounding and fewer gouges when fines enter the pit. That means you keep GPM and head over more seasons, and your motor doesn’t work as hard. Rick’s tip: keep the pit clean and elevate the pump an inch to reduce sediment ingestion. Materials help, but good housekeeping doubles the benefit.
6) What makes a Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard motors? The Pentek XE motor family leverages premium windings, precise rotor balance, and thermal overload protection to deliver steady torque with less heat. High-thrust capability stabilizes multistage loads in wells and translates to superior reliability under dynamic loads. For sump duty, motors built to this pedigree start smoothly, run at lower amperage for the same hydraulic work, and recover from temporary overloads without catastrophic failure. The net effect: fewer nuisance trips, cooler operation, and longer seal and bearing life. Rick’s observation: cooler motors equal happier seals—your pump’s “lungs” last longer when the “heart” doesn’t overheat.
7) Can I install a Myers sump pump myself? Yes—many homeowners competently install a Myers sump pump with standard tools. You’ll need PVC cutters, primer/cement, a quality check valve (preferably clear-bodied), unions, and an accurate tape for lift measurements. Use a wire splice kit with heat-shrink connectors if needed. Keep the discharge as straight as possible, mount the check valve vertically, and support the riser to prevent vibration. Electrical work should follow code: dedicated 115V circuit, correct breaker, and surge protection. If you’re unsure about wiring, hire a licensed electrician. Rick’s recommendation: call PSAM before you glue—verify the model against your TDH, and we’ll review your layout in five minutes.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire configurations? Does it matter for sumps? In well systems, 2-wire pumps have internal start components; 3-wire pumps use an external control box. Sumps are typically plug-and-play with internal switching, more akin to a “2-wire” concept—simple, reliable, fewer parts to fail. Complexity belongs in deep wells, not basement pits. The upside with Myers is consistency and serviceability; when a float fails, you replace the float—not a proprietary control box. Rick’s take: for basement duty, simple wins. Choose robust internals and accessible parts over complex external controls.
9) How long will a Myers sump pump last with proper maintenance? In typical residential basements, expect 8–12 years from a Myers-built sump, longer with great pit hygiene and stable power. Maintenance matters: keep the pit free of fines, test the float quarterly, exercise the pump monthly in dry seasons, and inspect the check valve annually. With solid install and a clean environment, I see Myers units crack a decade routinely. Add surge protection and a backup pump, and you’ve removed two of the biggest killers—power issues and surprise overloads. Rick’s rule: document baseline drawdown time and running amps on day one; compare annually to catch early decline.
10) Which maintenance tasks extend life the most?
- Clean the pit and elevate the pump to reduce sediment ingestion. Verify vertical check valve function; replace if it chatters or leaks back. Inspect and test the float quarterly; ensure free travel and no waterlogged components. Check running amps against nameplate during a cycle; elevated amps indicate friction or wear. Flush the discharge line annually to clear biofilm and fines. These steps reduce heat, prevent short-cycling, and preserve clearances—adding years to your pump. Rick’s pro tip: install unions and a valve above the check, so service takes minutes, not hours.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare, and what does it cover? Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty covers manufacturing defects and performance issues within normal use, eclipsing the 12–18 month coverage common in budget brands. Practically, this safeguards you during the period when most early-life failures occur—infant mortality from defects vs. wear-out. Coupled with Made in USA, UL listed, and CSA certified validation, Myers offers confidence that’s rare at this price point. PSAM simplifies claims and stocks replacements to minimize downtime. Rick’s perspective: the warranty isn’t just paper—it’s a risk reducer that makes replacement decisions easier and cheaper over the first three years.
12) What’s the 10-year total cost of ownership: Myers vs budget pumps? Budget: $150–$220 per pump, 3–5 year lifespan, likely two to three replacements in 10 years = $300–$660 in hardware alone, plus increased risk of flood damage and higher energy draw as performance declines. Myers: higher initial cost, but 8–12 year lifespan, typically one pump in a decade with steady efficiency and reduced emergency calls. Factor in the 3-year warranty, better materials, and faster cycle times, and you save on energy, service visits, and—most importantly—avoid catastrophic basement losses. Rick’s math: one quality pump that runs cool beats two bargain pumps that run hot. Reliability is the cheapest insurance you can buy.
Final Word from Rick
Repair when the fault is isolated and the motor and housing are healthy: a bad float, a suspect check valve, or a clogged discharge can be resolved quickly. Replace when you see heat damage, structural cracks, impeller erosion paired with poor performance, or a unit beyond its useful life. The Limas made the right call—new stainless-bodied Myers, corrected discharge, and a proper backup. Their basement stayed dry; their stress dropped to zero.
Ready to end the guessing? Call PSAM. I’ll size your Myers pump against real TDH, recommend the right check valve and unions, and get it shipped today. Myers engineering, Pentair backing, and PSAM support—worth every single penny when the rain line hits your foundation.
