Introduction: When the Water Stops, the Power Bill Climbs
The shower went lukewarm, the pressure sagged to a dribble, and the house went quiet—no faucets, no laundry, no flushing. A failing well pump doesn’t just ruin mornings; it spikes your electric bill as the motor strains and short-cycles. I’ve seen power usage jump 20–35% in the months before a pump finally quits. That wasted energy is money burned.
Two days later I got a call from the Kaczmarek family outside Traverse City, Michigan. Mateo Kaczmarek (38), a commercial electrician, and his wife Alina (36), a nurse practitioner, rely on a 165-foot private well for their home and their kids—Luka (9) and Zosia (5). Their previous 3/4 HP Goulds unit delivered barely 10 GPM when new, but a worn bearing and sand scoring knocked it off its efficiency curve. After a gnarly morning with no water and a rising electric bill, they wanted a bulletproof solution—and a lower monthly energy spend.
For families like the Kaczmareks, reliability is non-negotiable. Water keeps homes livable and budgets stable. That’s why this list zeroes in on practical steps to cut energy consumption with a properly selected get more info and installed Myers submersible—without sacrificing pressure at the kitchen sink or the irrigation spigot. Here’s the plan:
- Right-size the pump to its Best Efficiency Point (BEP) using the pump curve. Choose a high-thrust, efficient motor that doesn’t balloon amperage draw. Balance pressure tank volume and switch settings to slash short-cycling. Match 2-wire or 3-wire configuration to simplify and reduce losses. Use proper pipe diameter and minimize friction to hit target GPM at less wattage. Leverage stainless and Teflon-impregnated staging to keep efficiency high in sandy wells. Stop invisible leaks that force the pump to run when you don’t need water. Control starting loads with smart settings and surge protection. Maintain wiring integrity and correct voltage to prevent overheating and waste. Service on schedule so your Myers stays on its curve for years.
Before we dive in, a few reasons Myers is my consistent recommendation for cutting energy costs and headaches: an industry-leading 3-year warranty, 80%-plus hydraulic efficiency near BEP, heavy 300 series stainless build, and Pentair-backed engineering. At Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM), my job is to help you pick the right solution the first time—what I put on my trucks is what I trust in my own home.
#1. Size to the Curve, Not the Guess — Hitting BEP with a Myers Predator Plus and Pump Curve Analysis
Getting a submersible to use less power starts with operating it near its Best Efficiency Point (BEP). Too big a pump wastes watts throttling flow; too small runs hot and long. Either way, your bill climbs.
A Myers Pumps engineer would start exactly where myers deep well pump I do: calculate your TDH (total dynamic head) and needed GPM rating. With a known well depth, static water level, drawdown, friction loss, and pressure requirement, you can trace those numbers on the pump curve for the Predator Plus Series and land on the stage count and HP that sit right on the BEP. In a 165-foot Michigan well targeting 8–12 GPM to serve a family of four, a 1 HP Predator Plus often outperforms a 3/4 HP that struggles and short-cycles—because it lifts water in the efficiency sweet spot.
For Mateo and Alina, we paired a 1 HP Predator Plus (10–12 GPM) with their required pressure and fixtures. Once it ran near BEP, their monthly kWh dropped an estimated 18% compared to the failing unit.
Calculate Real TDH, Don’t Assume
Accurate TDH captures static lift, drawdown, pressure (convert PSI by multiplying by 2.31), and pipeline friction. That final number determines operating head and dictates your pump selection. Guessing low makes the motor work harder and longer per gallon.
Cross-Reference the Pump Curve
With TDH and target GPM, plot the duty point on the Predator Plus Series curve. The closer you operate to BEP, the lower the watt-hours per gallon. Myers designs deliver 80%+ hydraulic efficiency when properly matched.
Key takeaway: A few minutes of math and the right Myers curve selection can shave double-digit percentages off your electric bill every month.
#2. Upgrade the Motor, Cut the Amps — Pentek XE High-Thrust Efficiency at 230V Single-Phase
Motor choice is where you either save money every day or spend it silently. Myers pairs the Predator Plus with the Pentek XE motor, a high-thrust, efficient workhorse designed to deliver real flow at lower amperage.
Here’s what matters: 230V single-phase supply, proper capacitor sizing, and high-thrust bearings that keep stages aligned under load. The Pentek XE motor uses thermal design and windings that reduce copper losses. When you compare amperage draw at duty point against common alternatives, XE-equipped Myers motors run cooler, start reliably, and convert watts into water with less waste. That’s how you win the long game.
In the Kaczmarek well, bumping from a tired 3/4 HP to a 1 HP Myers submersible well pump with Pentek XE didn’t increase energy cost—the opposite. Because we hit BEP and ran an efficient motor at 230V, the total kWh per thousand gallons fell.
Voltage Matters for Efficiency
At 230V, current is halved compared to 115V for the same horsepower, reducing cable loss and heat. For runs over 150 feet, 230V is a no-brainer to protect the motor and bill.
Thermal and Surge Protection
The XE’s thermal overload protection and lightning safeguards prevent locked-rotor heat damage. A motor that doesn’t cook remains efficient longer, protecting insulation and bearings.
Key takeaway: Select a Myers Predator Plus with a Pentek XE motor on 230V, and you’ll see cooler operation, fewer nuisance trips, and lower watt-hours per gallon.
#3. Pressure Tank and Switch Tuning — Bigger Drawdown, Fewer Starts, Instant Energy Savings
Short-cycling beats up motors and burns energy. Every start surges amperage to 4–6x running load. Add that up across a day, and you’re paying for starts, not gallons. The fix: right-size the pressure tank and tune the pressure switch.
A proper drawdown volume means longer, gentler cycles. For a 10 GPM household, aim for enough tank volume to keep run times over 60 seconds. Pair with a 40/60 or 50/70 switch based on the home’s needs; higher cut-in/out increases pressure but can lift TDH and energy per gallon. Balance is everything.
For Mateo, I upsized the tank and set pre-charge 2 PSI below cut-in. Result: cycles stretched from 30–40 seconds to 90+ seconds. Starts per day dropped by roughly 35%, and so did all that wasteful inrush current.
Set Pre-Charge Correctly
Measure tank pressure with the system drained. Set it 2 PSI below switch cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40 PSI cut-in). This ensures max drawdown and longer, cooler pump runs.
Choose Sensible Pressure
If 40/60 delivers the shower you want, don’t jump to 50/70. That extra pressure adds head and amperage. Keep PSI modest for lower TDH and power use, unless your home’s fixtures demand higher pressure.
Key takeaway: Once your Myers is sized to the curve, cycle control is the fastest route to lower kWh and longer motor life.
#4. Smarter Wiring Choices — 2-Wire vs 3-Wire to Reduce Complexity and Losses
Choosing between a 2-wire well pump and a 3-wire well pump often comes down to control strategy, serviceability, and installed cost. Energy-wise, what you want is a configuration that keeps starts reliable and cable losses minimal without introducing unnecessary components.
Myers offers both, and the right match lowers lifetime cost. On many residential installs under 1.5 HP, a modern 2-wire with internal start components and fewer above-ground losses performs beautifully. Fewer connections mean fewer voltage-drop points and cleaner starts. For deeper systems or where diagnostics matter, 3-wire adds a control box topside—helpful for service, especially for contractors.
In the Kaczmarek install, the 2-wire 1 HP solution on 230V kept the system clean and efficient with rock-solid starts.
Minimize Voltage Drop
Longer wire runs at lower gauge cause heat and voltage dip. Keep wire size adequate for run length and amperage. Myers’ spec sheets show correct gauge—follow them, and your motor thanks you.
Control Strategy and Efficiency
An external start box isn’t magic. Unless diagnostics or deep-well starting demand it, a 2-wire keeps parts count and idle losses down. This streamlining—paired with XE motor design—cuts subtle energy leakage.
Key takeaway: Select the simplest configuration that meets your duty point and service preferences. With Myers, both options are efficient; the trick is avoiding overcomplication.
#5. Pipe Sizing and Check Strategy — Lower Friction, Lower Watts, Higher Flow
Hydraulics eat energy when friction is high. Undersized drop pipe, excessive fittings, or a bad valve plan cost real money every month. Myers submersibles do their part, but your piping must cooperate.
In most 4" submersible installs, stepping to 1" or even 1-1/4" drop pipe reduces friction loss dramatically. Use a single high-quality check at the pump and, if needed, one topside—avoid multiple checks in-line that trap pressure and hammer on restart. A clean pitless and smooth sweeps prevent needless head. The pump then reaches its duty point at lower amperage.
For the Kaczmareks, upsizing a short 3/4" section to 1" cleared a friction bottleneck. With the same duty point, we gained a bit of flow and shaved watt draw.
Audit Fittings and Valves
Every elbow and restrictive valve steals energy. Replace corroded or partially closed valves, and minimize hard 90s. Soft-radius sweeps and full-port valves return easy wins.
Align Discharge and House Plumbing
Match the discharge size to the home’s manifold. A strangled discharge sends you off the BEP and forces longer cycles—death by a thousand cuts to your energy budget.
Key takeaway: Myers handles the hydraulic work; your job is to hand it an easy pathway so it can run cooler and cheaper.
#6. Stainless and Staging That Stay Efficient — 300 Series Stainless and Teflon-Impregnated Impellers
Efficiency doesn’t just come from matching curves; it comes from staying on the curve as years pass. The Predator Plus uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—components that don’t corrode and shed efficiency in mineral-heavy water. Inside, Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers resists grit abrasion so your hydraulics remain true.
Sand scoring, iron deposits, and chemical attack can drag an impeller stack off its design point. With Myers’ engineered composites, surface finish remains slick, stage-to-stage friction stays low, and performance doesn’t slump into the “burn more watts, get less water” rut.
We saw it at the Kaczmareks—sand scarring on their old impellers and wear rings. After switching to Myers, their flow held stable and energy use stayed flat month-to-month.
Why Stainless Matters
300 series stainless steel resists pitting and scale. In slightly acidic or high-iron wells, that matters. Corrosion raises friction and misaligns tolerances, leading to more power per gallon.
Self-Lubricating Staging
Teflon-impregnated staging sheds grit and runs slick under load. Lower internal drag equals lower amperage draw. It’s like swapping mud tires for highway tread—same engine, easier rolling.
Key takeaway: Materials aren’t glamour; they’re the quiet reason your Myers still pumps like new after five winters.
#7. Leak Proof the House — Invisible Water Losses Are Energy Leaks Too
A perfectly tuned pump can’t compensate for a trickling toilet flapper, a silent irrigation seep, or a pinhole copper leak. Every unplanned gallon makes your system cycle, burning kWh you never notice until the bill shows up.
Do a whole-home audit: toilets, outside spigots, irrigation valves, water softener regeneration frequency, even a slow drip at the kitchen sink. Isolate zones with valves and gauge the pressure tank for unplanned overnight drops. The goal is to keep the pressure switch quiet unless water is actually being used.
Mateo found a slow seep at the yard hydrant and a toilet that ghost-flushed twice a night. Fixes like that don’t just save water—they keep your Myers on stand-by, not burning starts.
Gauge Overnight Pressure
Shut off fixtures, lock the irrigation controller, and watch the gauge. A drop means a leak. Track it down before your pump pays the price.
Softeners and Appliances
Regeneration schedules set too frequently waste water and power. Ensure your softener regenerates based on actual usage, not an aggressive timer setting.
Key takeaway: Plug the leaks and your efficient Myers becomes noticeably cheaper to run—because it only runs when you need it.
#8. Power Quality, Wire Gauge, and Connections — Stop Paying for Heat Instead of Water
Poor wiring wastes energy and shortens motor life. Undersized conductors become heaters; corroded splices introduce resistance; floating neutrals and poor grounds cause nuisance trips and hot windings. Good power equals efficient pumping.
Always match wire gauge to the run length and amperage per Myers spec. Use a proper wire splice kit and make cold, tight crimps. Waterproof with heat-shrink adhesive tubing. At the panel, verify breakers and terminations. A motor fed clean voltage and current operates cooler and draws fewer watts for the same work.
During the Kaczmarek install, we replaced a tired splice and bumped conductor gauge one size. That alone brought starting current down a notch and returned smooth, quiet operation.
Measure Voltage Under Load
No-load looks fine; under-load reveals the truth. Check voltage at the control point while the pump runs. A sagging number points to wire, connection, or supply issues stealing efficiency.
Grounding and Surge
Protect the motor and controls with good grounding and surge protection. Lightning damage knocks windings out of spec. Myers motors include safeguards, but clean grounding helps them do their job.
Key takeaway: Electricity that turns into heat is money gone. Feed your Myers clean power and it’ll feed you clean water—cheaply.
#9. Real-World Comparison: Myers vs Franklin Electric and Goulds on Energy and Service Life
Let’s put numbers and materials in context. A Predator Plus submersible paired with a Pentek XE motor and running near BEP converts more input watts into delivered water thanks to efficient hydraulics and high-thrust motor design. In contrast, comparable Franklin Electric setups often rely on proprietary control boxes that can introduce additional points of loss and complexity, especially when replacements aren’t perfectly matched. On the hardware side, Goulds frequently uses cast components in certain lines; cast surfaces and corrosion over time add friction, dragging the pump off its curve and increasing watt-hours per gallon.
On the ground, installation and serviceability matter. Myers’ field-serviceable, threaded assembly lets qualified contractors swap stages and service internals without full replacements—less downtime and better chance of maintaining original hydraulic performance. That long-term stability means your power usage remains predictable. The expected service life difference shows up on bills too: where cheaper assemblies lose efficiency after grit scoring, Myers staging stays slick.
Bottom line: between the stainless build, self-lubricating staging, and efficient XE motors, a Myers Predator Plus keeps delivering design performance after the honeymoon period. With PSAM’s stocking and support, the total cost of water delivered is simply lower—worth every single penny.
Why Serviceability Saves Energy
If you can restore internal tolerances with on-site service, you keep the pump at its design curve. Myers’ threaded assembly makes that possible and practical for contractors.
Control Box Simplicity
Avoiding proprietary boxes reduces headaches and idle losses. With Myers, you pick a clean, efficient configuration that won’t nickel-and-dime you later.
Key takeaway: This isn’t brand loyalty—it’s physics and serviceability that keep your energy spend under control.
#10. Warranty, Maintenance, and American Build — Protect Your Investment and Its Efficiency
An efficient pump is a maintained pump. Myers backs that up with an industry-leading 3-year warranty, Made in USA manufacturing, and components built to stay efficient under real-world water.
Annual checks—pressure switch calibration, tank pre-charge, amp draw during run, and visual inspection of the well cap and pitless—keep your system honest. Every few years, confirm your operating point still aligns with the pump curve. When your system remains close to BEP, you keep that 80%+ hydraulic efficiency delivering lower kWh per thousand gallons.
The Kaczmarek system will get a simple annual once-over. If their static level drops seasonally, we’ll verify pressure settings and flow to keep watts in check.
PSAM Support and Fast Shipping
When something changes, call us. With same-day shipping on in-stock Myers units and parts, you won’t be stuck running an inefficient, limping system while waiting weeks for components.
Documentation and Curves On-Hand
Myers’ resources—curves, install manuals, troubleshooting—are comprehensive. Use them to keep your pump right where it should be: cool, quiet, and cheap to run.
Key takeaway: Protect what you installed. Myers gives you the tools, warranty, and parts access to keep energy use low for the long haul.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Red Lion and Goulds on Materials, Cycling, and Real Energy Costs
Construction tells you how your pump will perform not on day one, but on day 1,800. Myers uses 300 series stainless steel on critical wetted parts and Teflon-impregnated staging to preserve hydraulic profiles over time. Red Lion’s common thermoplastic housings can deform or micro-crack under repeated pressure cycles and temperature swings, changing clearances and increasing internal drag. Goulds cast components are robust, but in water with elevated iron or mildly acidic pH, we see more surface degradation and scale. Degraded surfaces equate to higher friction and greater wattage for the same GPM.
In daily use, these material differences show up as subtle efficiency losses that accumulate on your bill. A pump that once hit 10 GPM at 55 PSI might fall to 8.5 GPM over time—so your showers still feel fine, but the motor runs longer. With Myers, the self-lubricating impellers shrug off grit that would score cheaper stacks, keeping you closer to BEP for years.
When you add in the easy serviceability, Pentair-backed engineering, and PSAM stocking, the lifecycle math tilts hard toward Myers. Fewer replacements, more stable efficiency, and fewer emergency calls—worth every single penny.
FAQ: Expert Answers from the Field
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start by calculating your TDH (total dynamic head) and target GPM rating. TDH includes static water level, drawdown, desired pressure (PSI × 2.31), and friction loss in pipe and fittings. With these numbers, plot your duty point on the Myers pump curve for the Predator Plus Series. Choose the horsepower and stage count that lands near the BEP (Best Efficiency Point). For example, a 165-foot well supplying 10 GPM at a 50 PSI setpoint might point to a 1 HP multi-stage unit. Undersizing forces long, hot runs; oversizing means throttling and wasted wattage. In my field work, most 2–3 bath homes come in at 1/2 HP to 1 HP depending on depth and pressure. When in doubt, call PSAM with your measurements—I’ll translate them into a precise recommendation so your Myers runs cool, efficient, and quiet.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes are comfortable at 8–12 GPM. Households with irrigation or livestock may require 12–20 GPM. Multi-stage impellers in a submersible well pump stack pressure: each stage adds head. That’s how a compact, 4" Predator Plus Series pump achieves substantial lift for deep wells while maintaining useful GPM. The trick is balancing flow needs with pressure targets to keep the pump at its BEP. Too many stages without demand wastes energy; too few forces the motor to labor. With Myers’ efficient staging and Pentek XE motor, you achieve required PSI with fewer watt-hours per thousand gallons. For example, a 10–12 GPM, 1 HP setup at 165 feet commonly delivers steady household supply without creeping amperage.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
High efficiency is baked into Myers design: smooth-flow Teflon-impregnated staging, precise impeller geometry, and low-loss 300 series stainless steel internals. Running near the BEP, hydraulic losses are minimized. Pair that with the Pentek XE motor—engineered windings, cooling, and high-thrust bearings—and watt-to-water conversion stays high. Competing brands sometimes lose efficiency as surfaces corrode or plastic components deform under cycling; Myers materials resist those performance drags. In practice, I see 15–20% lower power consumption for the same gallons delivered when a Myers duty point is properly selected versus “close enough” budget alternatives. The real win is that efficiency holds steady for years, not just the first season.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Submerged pumps live in a corrosive world. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and scale in mineral-heavy or mildly acidic water. Cast iron can corrode, adding surface friction and altering internal clearances, which knocks the pump off its curve and increases power consumption. Stainless also tolerates pressure cycling without micro-fractures. In my service calls, stainless assemblies like Myers’ maintain hydraulic performance longer, meaning you don’t pay the hidden tax of declining flow that stretches run times. Over 8–15 years—the expected service window for Predator Plus—stainless keeps total watt-hours per gallon lower compared to corroded cast components.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Abrasive particles scour standard plastics and even some metals. Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers maintains a slick surface and reduces abrasive wear. The lower coefficient of friction means reduced drag even as minute grit passes through, so stage efficiency stays high. During tear-downs, I routinely find Myers impellers with only light polishing where competitors show pronounced scoring that affects head and GPM output. Less internal drag equals fewer watt-hours for the same gallons. If your well produces sand intermittently, this material choice is a quiet insurance policy against efficiency loss and premature failure.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor integrates optimized windings, high-thrust bearings, and thermal overload protection to convert electrical power into mechanical work with minimal loss. High-thrust bearings keep multi-stage stacks aligned, reducing friction and vibration. Thermal design prevents hot spots that degrade insulation and raise resistance. In the field, I see XE motors holding lower amperage at the same duty point versus many standard motors, especially as temperatures climb. Pair the XE with a 230V supply to reduce current and cable losses. It’s a straightforward formula: less waste heat, more water per watt.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
A skilled DIYer with electrical and plumbing experience can install a Myers submersible well pump, but precision matters. You’ll handle well safety, drop pipe, electrical splices, pressure tank and pressure switch settings, and possibly a pitless adapter. Mistakes—wrong wire gauge, poor splices, mis-set pressures—drive up energy use and can void warranties. Contractors carry tools to calculate TDH, set the duty point on the pump curve, and verify amp draw under load. My practical advice: if the well is deep, the run is long, or your household can’t afford a misstep, hire a licensed installer. PSAM can connect you with pros and supply a complete Myers kit for a seamless job.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump has internal start components; wiring runs straight to the motor. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with capacitors/relays to start and run the motor. Energy-wise, both can be efficient. 2-wire simplifies installation and reduces above-ground components (fewer loss points). 3-wire assists with deep-well starting and can be easier to troubleshoot. For 1–1.5 HP residential systems on 230V, I often specify 2-wire for simplicity and reliability. The key is choosing the configuration that supports your depth, horsepower, and service preference without introducing unnecessary complexity.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With annual checks and correct sizing, expect 8–15 years, commonly longer. I’ve seen well-cared-for units stretch into decades. What extends life? Operating near BEP, correct voltage and wire gauge, clean splices, sane pressure settings, a matched pressure tank, and leak-free plumbing. The 3-year warranty covers manufacturing defects and performance issues, but your maintenance routine is what keeps efficiency high year after year. In regions with sand or iron, Myers’ materials help the pump maintain hydraulic performance instead of slowly sliding off the curve and using more power.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Annually, verify tank pre-charge (2 PSI below cut-in), confirm pressure switch accuracy, and check running amperage against the nameplate. Inspect well cap integrity and electrical terminations. Every few years, validate system TDH and compare your operating point to the pump curve—if static level has changed, tweak pressure settings as needed. Fix leaks immediately—wasted gallons cause extra starts. Keep surge protection in place to protect windings. These are quick checks that keep your Myers running cool and efficient, and they prevent the slow creep of higher utility bills.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty—36 months, far beyond many brands’ 12–18 months. Coverage includes manufacturing defects and performance failures tied to workmanship or materials. When a brand stands behind its products for that long, it signals confidence in real-world reliability. Compare that to budget pumps with 1-year coverage: replacement risk shifts to you, increasing total ownership cost. With PSAM’s support, claims are straightforward, and we prioritize fast turnaround so you aren’t stuck running a limping, inefficient system. Warranty aside, Myers’ durable materials and efficient design are what keep your kWh and headaches down.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Add it up: purchase price, energy consumption, repairs, and replacements. A budget pump may cost half up front but often runs off-curve sooner due to wear, using 10–25% more electricity per gallon and failing in 3–5 years. That means buying two or three pumps per decade, with service calls and downtime. A properly sized Myers Predator Plus with Pentek XE motor, 300 series stainless steel, and Teflon-impregnated staging tends to run 8–15 years while maintaining efficiency. Factor in the 3-year warranty, fewer parts replacements, and PSAM’s quick shipping, and the 10-year ledger tilts sharply to Myers. You’ll pay a little more once, then save quietly every day.
Final Thoughts: Make the Pump Do Less Work, Not You
Energy savings with a Myers well pump isn’t a mystery—it’s a checklist. Land your duty point on the pump curve, choose the Pentek XE motor on 230V, size the pressure tank for long cycles, set a sensible pressure switch, streamline piping, and keep leaks and wiring tight. Do that, and your Myers—built on 300 series stainless steel with Teflon-impregnated staging—will deliver water at lower watt-hours per gallon for years. That’s why at PSAM, it’s in “Rick’s Picks.” For the Kaczmareks, this approach restored pressure, cut starts by a third, and dropped their electric usage—a better shower and a better bill. If you’re ready to spec it right the first time, call us; we’ll size your Myers to BEP and ship it today. It’s a reliable, efficient water supply—worth every single penny.